Thursday, April 21, 2011

Porters at Work: Nepal, Low

Low, of course, is a relative term.  In this case from Lukla (9,200') to Namche (11,300').





Gotta love that juxtaposition in the last one, no?  Particularly as that was rather a large pack for a group tourist traveling with porters.

Full disclosure: boyfriend and I did hire a porter for the one of our 17 days, the first with appreciable climbing.  For me, it took some getting used to.  Unfortunately, he spoke no English at all, so all communicating was done via smiles and gestures and the few Nepali words we knew (he was not Sherpani, as our friends' guide pointedly informed us).  I would have been fine with him booking along at his own pace and meeting us at the end, but he stopped when we stopped and went when we went, silently, like a shadow.  The language barrier also allowed me to project all sorts of thoughts onto him: "What does he think of being a porter?  Is it an okay way to make a living?  Does he resent the tourist influx?  Does he resent us?  Does he appreciate the fact that this is a pretty light load (~25 lbs, compared to a maximum of around 150-200) or does he wish he was carrying more so that he could earn more?  Is he judging our speed?  Are we slower or faster than the average tourist?  More or less annoying?  Does he wish I wouldn't stop so often to take pictures?  Does he think I am choosing weird or cliche subjects?..."  So on, so forth.  That might sound kinda neurotic, but when you're walking all day you have a lot of time to live in your own head.  Ultimately, his presence that day was mighty appreciated as he allowed us to ease into climbing on those rugged Himalayan trails.

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