First bolts are often high. I think its partly because the rock is more stable a bit higher and partly to keep scrubs off the routes (first bolts on harder routes are extra high). The Red & the New are particularly bad (sometimes 20-30 feet high), and a lot of routes have really bouldery-cruxy off the ground. Did you guys bring a stick-clip when you went down or did you just stick to the lines with more straightforward starts?
I figured it was to avoid hitting the deck between first and second bolt. Better to fall at the first and lower bolt. There was often enough someone around with a stick-clip - definitely more sticks than helmets!
A decent belayer can keep you off the deck if you fall before clipping the 2nd bolt (unless you pull out crazy slack or the bolts are really far apart)- I've done it in the gym (never had to outside). But if you fall before clipping the first, it is incredibly easy to end up with a busted ankle. Even a teeny little fall from low on a boulder problem without a pad is really jarring.
Hah, that's pretty funny. That first bolt is pretty high...
ReplyDeleteFirst bolts are often high. I think its partly because the rock is more stable a bit higher and partly to keep scrubs off the routes (first bolts on harder routes are extra high). The Red & the New are particularly bad (sometimes 20-30 feet high), and a lot of routes have really bouldery-cruxy off the ground. Did you guys bring a stick-clip when you went down or did you just stick to the lines with more straightforward starts?
ReplyDeleteI figured it was to avoid hitting the deck between first and second bolt. Better to fall at the first and lower bolt. There was often enough someone around with a stick-clip - definitely more sticks than helmets!
ReplyDeleteA decent belayer can keep you off the deck if you fall before clipping the 2nd bolt (unless you pull out crazy slack or the bolts are really far apart)- I've done it in the gym (never had to outside). But if you fall before clipping the first, it is incredibly easy to end up with a busted ankle. Even a teeny little fall from low on a boulder problem without a pad is really jarring.
ReplyDeleteGlad you had access to a stick. And a helmet. :)